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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:46 am 
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I was thinking about an idea for a thread for Auto Repairs section. Ask/Answer type of thing. You don't necessarily have to be an expert/perhaps you know the market on the particular repair/part/service.

I'll start. I'm looking at $660 to get a Lower Front control arm and both sway bar links replaced. Its this reasonable? It's a 2007 Escape with 170K miles. I need to keep this car alive and running as I also just but a new Traverse and yeah, that fucking car payment sucks.

This seems pretty high for front end work, unless it's in the labor. Am I getting boned on this quote?


Last edited by Caller Bob on Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:54 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:47 am 
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Go tankless

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:50 am 
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If labor is included, that sounds about right.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:50 am 
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sjboyd0137 wrote:
Go tankless

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:52 am 
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Chus wrote:
If labor is included, that sounds about right.

Fuck, I need to learn how to fix cars :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:54 am 
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Sounds like you need your johnson rod replaced too. Ask your mechanic for a quote.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 10:00 am 
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Douchebag wrote:
Sounds like you need your johnson rod replaced too. Ask your mechanic for a quote.

:lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 10:50 am 
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Douchebag wrote:
Sounds like you need your johnson rod replaced too. Ask your mechanic for a quote.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:15 am 
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I just left out a couple of things, rust-proofing..

"Rust-proofing"?

Transport charge, storage surcharge, additional overcharge, finder’s fee

"Finder’s fee"? It was on the lot!

Yeah, that’s right. Floor mats, keys..

‘Keys"?!

How ya gonna start it?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:31 am 
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Caller Bob wrote:
I was thinking about an idea for a thread for Auto Repairs section. Ask/Answer type of thing. You don't necessarily have to be an expert/perhaps you know the market on the particular repair/part/service.

I'll start. I'm looking at $660 to get a Lower Front control arm and both sway bar links replaced. Its this reasonable? It's a 2007 Escape with 170K miles. I need to keep this car alive and running as I also just but a new Traverse and yeah, that fucking car payment sucks.

This seems pretty high for front end work, unless it's in the labor. Am I getting boned on this quote?


Check the price of the parts at auto zone.

Often times, you can also get an idea of the repair time from a someone at the counter there.

There is extra time built into front end repairs. Some go easy, others are a pain in the ass and there is no real way of knowing which is which.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:38 am 
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Seacrest wrote:
Caller Bob wrote:
I was thinking about an idea for a thread for Auto Repairs section. Ask/Answer type of thing. You don't necessarily have to be an expert/perhaps you know the market on the particular repair/part/service.

I'll start. I'm looking at $660 to get a Lower Front control arm and both sway bar links replaced. Its this reasonable? It's a 2007 Escape with 170K miles. I need to keep this car alive and running as I also just but a new Traverse and yeah, that fucking car payment sucks.

This seems pretty high for front end work, unless it's in the labor. Am I getting boned on this quote?


Check the price of the parts at auto zone.

Often times, you can also get an idea of the repair time from a someone at the counter there.

There is extra time built into front end repairs. Some go easy, others are a pain in the ass and there is no real way of knowing which is which.


The shop should be able to split the repair into parts and labor. They are probably tripling the part cost if you bought from autozone. You may be able to bring that down or ask if you can supply the part. Or they may come down on parts if you are going that route.

Try to youtube the repair, at least then when you are talking to them you know what parts are involved and if its simple or complex.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 12:02 pm 
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One other thing.

If you are doing the control arm on one side, you should really be doing the same one on the opposite side.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 5:07 pm 
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The sway links probably are under $40 and you could do those with a jack and wrenches, yes hoist and impact are nice, but not mandatory. I would only do the control arm(s) if you are keeping the vehicle for over a year. I'm not sure if those have replaceable bushings or are run-to-failure, that might be an option. Would need an alignment afterwards, assume it is in the quote? Shop around, usually does not cost to ask.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 5:51 pm 
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Caller Bob wrote:
I was thinking about an idea for a thread for Auto Repairs section. Ask/Answer type of thing. You don't necessarily have to be an expert/perhaps you know the market on the particular repair/part/service.

I'll start. I'm looking at $660 to get a Lower Front control arm and both sway bar links replaced. Its this reasonable? It's a 2007 Escape with 170K miles. I need to keep this car alive and running as I also just but a new Traverse and yeah, that fucking car payment sucks.

This seems pretty high for front end work, unless it's in the labor. Am I getting boned on this quote?




All wheel drive? Front wheel drive? I've replaced control arms on 2 cars, it's easy and fairly cheap in parts. I've never replaced sway bars or linkage but I know a good mobile mechanic that will come to you n look at it for free, he's middle of the road on labor so if he's cheaper, I'd go with him.. I'm assuming you are in Chicago or within 5-10 miles of the city.

170k miles is getting up there, I'd go to the bone yard for those parts too.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:10 pm 
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Thanks for the feedback, it was at the dealer anyways so they are doing the left side, I know they are fucking me but whatever, my friend does mechanic and will help me do the other side in a few weeks.

It actually replaced the trans at @120K, so hoping to get another 100K out of it, as long as the engine is in good shape. I do regular oil changes every 5k, synthetic blend.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:42 am 
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i know this is an auto repair thread...but my less than a year old Craftsman (B&S engine) mower wouldn't start yesterday (1st attempt this year)
Now, i fully admit i was negligent in maintenance and left about half a tank of gas sit in the engine over the winter...didn't add a stabilizer or drain it. Could old/bad gas really cause it not to start ?

I ordered a new spark plug in case it's that, i haven't checked that yet but i guess that would be the next step

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:48 am 
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Bagels wrote:
i know this is an auto repair thread...but my less than a year old Craftsman (B&S engine) mower wouldn't start yesterday (1st attempt this year)
Now, i fully admit i was negligent in maintenance and left about half a tank of gas sit in the engine over the winter...didn't add a stabilizer or drain it. Could old/bad gas really cause it not to start ?

I ordered a new spark plug in case it's that, i haven't checked that yet but i guess that would be the next step


You top off with fresh gas? I always would leave it over winter on 1/4 tank of gas and just fill it up. It would take 10-15 cranks but it would eventually go. After the first time it was normal.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 9:56 am 
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Bagels wrote:
i know this is an auto repair thread...but my less than a year old Craftsman (B&S engine) mower wouldn't start yesterday (1st attempt this year)
Now, i fully admit i was negligent in maintenance and left about half a tank of gas sit in the engine over the winter...didn't add a stabilizer or drain it. Could old/bad gas really cause it not to start ?

I ordered a new spark plug in case it's that, i haven't checked that yet but i guess that would be the next step

Move.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:52 am 
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Bagels wrote:
i know this is an auto repair thread...but my less than a year old Craftsman (B&S engine) mower wouldn't start yesterday (1st attempt this year)
Now, i fully admit i was negligent in maintenance and left about half a tank of gas sit in the engine over the winter...didn't add a stabilizer or drain it. Could old/bad gas really cause it not to start ?

I ordered a new spark plug in case it's that, i haven't checked that yet but i guess that would be the next step


You have water in the carburetor. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned.

After your last mow in the fall, always run the engine until the gas tank is empty.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 11:02 am 
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Bagels wrote:
i know this is an auto repair thread...but my less than a year old Craftsman (B&S engine) mower wouldn't start yesterday (1st attempt this year)
Now, i fully admit i was negligent in maintenance and left about half a tank of gas sit in the engine over the winter...didn't add a stabilizer or drain it. Could old/bad gas really cause it not to start ?

I ordered a new spark plug in case it's that, i haven't checked that yet but i guess that would be the next step

Call Juan

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:35 pm 
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Make sure and change the oil before going any further, if you have not already. Old oil can really get thick in those little engines, or you might have had some fuel leak past the carb into the cylinder. Better to drain it and fill with new before trying to start it. Give the carb a light tap with a screwdriver handle, just in cast the float is stuck closed. Today's gasoline with mandated ethanol content is wreaking havoc with engines of all types, in places we didn't have trouble with the old gas.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 9:22 pm 
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Soon as I read "sway bar & front controller arm",I said to myself: FORD.

I had a used Thunderbird that I really loved with those type of issues if I remember correctly. We traded that in for a van. We also had a Taurus. Between the Windstar and Taurus that was close to 200,000 miles before we unloaded them. I know that's not much compared to what I read on here but when does a $2000.00 repair bill or a couple of $600.00 repairs stop making sense?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 3:00 am 
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Bagels wrote:
i know this is an auto repair thread...but my less than a year old Craftsman (B&S engine) mower wouldn't start yesterday (1st attempt this year)
Now, i fully admit i was negligent in maintenance and left about half a tank of gas sit in the engine over the winter...didn't add a stabilizer or drain it. Could old/bad gas really cause it not to start ?

I ordered a new spark plug in case it's that, i haven't checked that yet but i guess that would be the next step


Strange it would be giving you trouble after a year. Just curious how often you use it. Even with stabilizer and cutting my grass twice a week most of the summer, my carb gets gummed up enough that ever two to three years I take it to a local guy to get serviced. Actually will be trying to get mine fired up later today

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:12 am 
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i'm out of ideas now

i took the carburetor off, took it apart (didn't look dirty at all really) and cleaned it...i blew air through the intake to verify it wasn't clogged....put it back on. Changed the sparkplug. Fresh gas. Oil level fine. Air filter fine. Still won't start.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:14 am 
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Bagels wrote:
i'm out of ideas now

i took the carburetor off, took it apart (didn't look dirty at all really) and cleaned it...i blew air through the intake to verify it wasn't clogged....put it back on. Changed the sparkplug. Fresh gas. Oil level fine. Air filter fine. Still won't start.


That's about as far as I have ever taken working on a lawnmower, not sure what else to do. Sounds like its off to Home Depot for ye.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:19 am 
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Sounds like a fuel line problem....

When it gets to that point, I am with Hank, Home Depot time.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:30 am 
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yea i might have to just chalk it up to being a lemon. I guess it gets to the risk/reward part of the repair option. If i take it somewhere to get repaired, how much is that going to cost me vs. just getting a new one at this point. And of course with the weather now getting spring like, i need to take some kind of action quickly as i can't really skip another weekend of mowing

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:49 am 
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Bagels wrote:
yea i might have to just chalk it up to being a lemon. I guess it gets to the risk/reward part of the repair option. If i take it somewhere to get repaired, how much is that going to cost me vs. just getting a new one at this point. And of course with the weather now getting spring like, i need to take some kind of action quickly as i can't really skip another weekend of mowing


I'd think you could find a small engine repair place willing to look it over/possibly fix it for less than $50.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 9:26 am 
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Bagels wrote:
yea i might have to just chalk it up to being a lemon. I guess it gets to the risk/reward part of the repair option. If i take it somewhere to get repaired, how much is that going to cost me vs. just getting a new one at this point. And of course with the weather now getting spring like, i need to take some kind of action quickly as i can't really skip another weekend of mowing


I have a guy who has a small engine repair shop. Hit me up if you want his number.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 9:27 am 
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denisdman wrote:
Sounds like a fuel line problem....


He probably needs a new Johnson rod.

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