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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 9:30 am 
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Chus wrote:
Bagels wrote:
yea i might have to just chalk it up to being a lemon. I guess it gets to the risk/reward part of the repair option. If i take it somewhere to get repaired, how much is that going to cost me vs. just getting a new one at this point. And of course with the weather now getting spring like, i need to take some kind of action quickly as i can't really skip another weekend of mowing


I have a guy who has a small engine repair shop. Hit me up if you want his number.


i appreciate it, but i'm guessing it's someone out near your area ? There's a place I forgot about that's basically down the street from my work, so I guess I'll take it there tomorrow


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 9:33 am 
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Fuel filter?

Quote:
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en ... -tips.html

Your Mower Won't Start:

Believe it or not, many homeowners experience this frustration for one very obvious reason: the gas tank is empty. So be sure you're filled up first. Old gas can also lead to problems starting. If you have last season's gas in your mower, drain your fuel tank and fill with fresh gas. Other possible causes include:
• Loose, Dirty or Disconnected Spark Plug in Your Lawn Mower: Check it out, clean off debris, re-connect and tighten.
• Dirty Air Filter: Clean or replace.
• Fuel Not Reaching the Engine: Tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If this doesn't work, you might need a new fuel filter.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:26 pm 
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So, do you actually have spark at the plug? Pull the wire off and hook it to the old plug and ground the base of the old plug and turn the motor over to check. IF no spark at all, I'm guessing you have a safety switch somewhere not making up- seat switch, start in neutral switch, push clutch in switch, etc, etc. IF you have spark, then you only need full and air to burn, so is the new plug wet from unfired fuel?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 5:39 pm 
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Good joint on 115th n Pulaski, cheap n efficient.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 9:05 pm 
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Same shit with my Toro lawn mower, only 3-4 years old and a bitch to start. The ethanol thing is a sorry ass excuse. If they know Ethanol is here to stay, Briggs and Straton needs to design their engines to play nice with Ethanol...fucking Jap crap, they just want you back at the store buying a new one every 5 years.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:17 pm 
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My Toro mower is a champ. I got it in 2004, and she is running strong.

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Last edited by Chus on Tue Apr 25, 2017 4:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:31 am 
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Caller Bob wrote:
Same shit with my Toro lawn mower, only 3-4 years old and a bitch to start. The ethanol thing is a sorry ass excuse. If they know Ethanol is here to stay, Briggs and Straton needs to design their engines to play nice with Ethanol...fucking Jap crap, they just want you back at the store buying a new one every 5 years.



I agree that the newest equipment , like yours and Bagels', (Bagel's/Bagelses?) the manufacturer should have all-ethanol ready items installed on the engines. How the EPA concerns for the small engine emissions have affected the starting or performance, and the planned obsolescence, that's a whole different topic.

In the one case I personally have experienced, it was quite a stretch to expect the manufacturer to have foreseen the issue: the ethanol reactaed with the rubber boot holding the carburetor to the engine, and attacked the aluminum encapsulated in the rubber. This caused the aluminum to swell and crack the rubber boot, which then broke, allowing the carb to become disconnected from the cylinder. The extra air allowed in through the break leaned the mixture out, and in a two-stroke engine, usually led to piston/cylinder failure. In my case, I caught it before the major damage occurred, but still had to replace the carb boots.

Another problem was that the very small fuel lines in a leaf blower and chain saw swelled due to the ethanol in the fuel, effectively closing themselves off. Just had to replace all the fuel lines, and both ran fine after that.

If only my own clogged arteries could be replaced so cheaply and easily...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:36 am 
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Anyone know of a good mechanic in the NW burbs? I have a leak in my exhaust system.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:48 am 
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redskingreg wrote:
Anyone know of a good mechanic in the NW burbs? I have a leak in my exhaust system.


Depends.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:44 am 
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Minooka Meatball wrote:
redskingreg wrote:
Anyone know of a good mechanic in the NW burbs? I have a leak in my exhaust system.


Depends.


:lol:

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